John Galliano has returned to fashion with a triumphant debut for Maison Margiela and the Martin is gone. In total there were 24 looks. I’ve posted a few hear that I liked.
Presenting his spring 2015 couture collection in London, rather than the usual Paris slot, the former Dior designer chose an anonymous office block setting – how fitting, considering Martin Margiela is a man ironically famed for his invisibility.
Handing over the house keys to one of the most high-profile designers ever was surely a risk for MM’s uniform ‘collective’, but one that seems to have paid off as the artisanal collection emerged.
Perfectly deconstructed tuxedos and pitch-perfect column gowns were quick to remind us that Galliano’s tailoring skills are second-to-none, while surrealist embellishments (a razor cut coat breast covered with patent shells in a sort of latex lobster look) showed us that he can still come up with kooky-cool new concepts aplenty.
He had plenty of supporters there such as Anna Wintor and others.
But it was the show’s finale that really struck a chord with the audience, as the previous looks emerged again in calico toile form, tacked with instructions and handwritten notes. Partly, perhaps, a reference to his original debut as a graduate in 1984, and partly, of course, to remind everyone that the new Galliano is still a work in progress.
Photo Credit: Marcu Tondo / Indigitalimages.com