Glam Rock Takes Over At Saint Laurent

 

 

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saint laurent red velvet shirt

It was quite the scene at the Palladium concert hall on Sunset Boulevard on February 10th when Hedi Slimane transported his Saint Laurent spectacular to his beloved City of Angels. Bottle blonde Justin Bieber brought his skateboard, and Sly Stallone brought his daughters. Ellen DeGeneres cozied up with Sam Smith, and Gaga, in a gold sequin bomber and golden glitter-rimmed Groucho Marx glasses, bounded across the wide dance-floor runway to greet Courtney Love, wearing a slip of molten pewter lamé that placed her breasts very much on view. An ageless Jane Fonda (how could she be 78?) worked a high-rise French pleat and an appropriately star-spangled tux; Lenny Kravitz rocked a beaded breastplate; Asia Chow wore a denim jacket over a frothy tulle prom dress; and Mark Ronson opted for shocking pink.

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Slimane has made Los Angeles his base since 2008 (he moved his studio here four years later), and he has continued to channel the city’s quirky vintage, polished grunge and rock ’n’ roll vibe into his Saint Laurent collections ever since—just as Yves Saint Laurent himself had Marrakech, Morocco’s pink adobe city where the legendary couturier was rejuvenated and inspired when he discovered that city’s flamboyant color mixes, mind-altering substances, and a whole new hippie de luxe perspective on style. So it was an exciting prospect to be invited to step into Slimane’s world and discover why he fell for Los Angeles’s seductive style when he decided to show his Fall 2016 men’s collection, and Part I of his women’s (Part II will be unveiled in Paris later this fashion season) at the storied Palladium. Steeped in Tinseltown legend, it was built in high Hollywood Moderne style on the site of an old Paramount lot, and opened in 1940 with Tommy Dorsey and his orchestra performing with the 24-year-old vocalist Frank Sinatra.

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Slimane bathed the concert hall’s curvaceous ceiling moldings and balconies in flaming orange light and framed the various bands’ equipment against a charming “Hollywoodland” backdrop of spindly palm trees, delicately painted in white-on-black by 18-year-old Lucia Ribisi (daughter of the actor Giovanni Ribisi). The 93-look collection also celebrated the 50th anniversary of Yves Saint Laurent’s Rive Gauche collection, and the looks paid subtle homage to his legacy. The girls, stomping out to PyPy’s “She’s Gone,” were all dressed in the sort of midi-length skirts or culottes and Victoriana dresses favored by Loulou de La Falaise at the cusp of the ’70s, complete with the broad belts, shrunken jackets, or Berber capes she wore with them. The looks also evoked Jane Fonda’s fabulous wardrobe as the high-class call girl in Alan J. Pakula’s style-saturated 1971 movie, Klute (so did hairdresser Didier Malige’s choppy shag-cuts). The glam rock touches—like lightning bolt embroideries and peaked shoulders—suggested David Bowie’s powerfully influential Ziggy Stardust costumes.

The asparagus-lean boys, meanwhile, wore Slimane’s signature sprayed-on jeans, or skinny-cut pants with a military stripe down the side, and elaborately embellished Hussar jackets, like the antique ones once coveted by the likes of Mick Jagger and Stephen Tyler, Jimi Hendrix (many of the looks were styled with no-pictures-please rock star sunglasses). There were velvets and brocades, and jabots and fedoras, and jackets bespangled with Parisian embroideries, all put together to suggest the iconic look of that quintessential Los Angeleno, the fashion rocker and NBA enthusiast James Goldstein. The collection was a love letter to the city Slimane adores. “That was a piece of art in every way,” opined Jeffrey Deitch, who should know art when he sees it. “There’s a lot for me to work with!” laughed Lenny Kravitz.

After the usually reclusive Slimane took his bow (in a ruby velvet jacket, with Oscar Wilde–length hair), the dance floor was mobbed by junior beauties. I didn’t know there were so many cute, hip people in Los Angeles.

Then the benches were cleared and the stage was ignited by Father John Misty—the first of 11 performers, each doing three or four songs. Beck followed (casual), and then Joan Jett took to the stage in a spangled red catsuit and a fistful of punk attitude, and she brought the house down with “I Love Rock ’n’ Roll.”  “Thank you, Hedi, for making such beautiful clothes!” shouted Jett, and the crowd roared.

Grace Coddington steps down as creative director of American Vogue!

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Vogue has broken the news that Grace Coddington, who has been creative director of American Vogue for 25-plus years, is stepping away from her full-time role.

A spokesperson for Vogue confirmed the announcement to BoF. “After more than 25 years at American Vogue, Grace Coddington will assume the role of creative director at large and take on additional projects outside the magazine. She will work on several Vogue fashion shoots throughout the year.”

She is still contracted to produce at least four editorial spreads a year for Vogue, and as yet there are no plans to fill the role of creative director.

Since joining the magazine in 1988, this is the first time that Coddington will have the opportunity to pursue external projects, which already include a forthcoming collaboration with Comme des Garçons. The 74-year-old will be represented by the Great Bowery, which also represents Bruce Weber and Hedi Slimane.

“I really love Vogue, it’s been in my life always, they discovered me as a model at 19,” Coddington tells BoF. “I’m not running away from Vogue, because it has opened so many doors. But it will be nice to collaborate, and nice to go out [and] give talks to people. It’s just another approach. I’m certainly not going into retirement. I don’t want to sit around.”

I don’t know how anyone could fill her shoes. I’m so sad to see her go! She was the creative force behind making fashion the now and always making Vogue the authority on what’s new in fashion.  I will miss that Coddington feel to a photo shoot.

First Come First Serve Alta Moda Style At D & G

 

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D& G alta Moda black

After the hustle of the Haute Couture shows in Paris there is always one last thing that I wait for. The super exclusive Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda (Haute Couture in Italian) show. Only the 1% of the 1% are are invited to see and attend this exclusive collection. The collection was only for sale to an exclusive list of some of the worlds most exclusive and wealthiest clients.

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The Alta Moda line, had it’s start just a mere 4 years ago in the fall of 2012 since
then the cloths sell like hot cakes and has been some what expanded. With that to be considered this clothing has turned into collectors pieces and have somehow elevated it to beyond the height of  Haute Couture.

 

This years setting for the spectacle  Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda spring 2016 collection brought to light at La Scala opera house, Milan this year as well through as-always dizzy and well-heeled show, reached its completion on January 31, Sunday. And we are barley catching the glimpse of that opulence, experiencing unknown delights and getting high over it. Yes, we are yet again spellbound.

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But to begin at the beginning: The social gathering in the foyer for the Dolce & Gabbana command performance surely couldn’t have been more glittering and dressed up than the entrance scenes made by guests in the ’50s, ’60s, and ’70s. At midday on Sunday morning, women were assembling in full-length evening gowns, trains, fur hats, sparkling hair ornaments, and, in at least two cases, crowns. En masse public sightings of couture clients as lavishly dressed as this are almost as rare as spotting a herd of unicorns in Paris—but here they all were, the high-net-worth individuals, wives and husbands, high rollers, heiresses, and mother-and-daughter pairs, the multigenerational international Dolce & Gabbana fan club magnetized to Milan from the United States, China, Russia, the Middle East, Britain, Germany, Switzerland, Taiwan, Singapore, and beyond. The day before, they’d seen the Alta Sartoria collection of bespoke clothes for men, a super smart lure to couples to make a whole weekend of it, a nonstop round of lunches, parties, dancing, and fittings—and with Dolce & Gabbana the only show in town.

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But this was the crescendo. The audience sat on gold chairs on the stage, with a full view of the gold and deep red velvet sweep of the auditorium. As the models walked up the aisle of the theater, in unhurried procession, there was a strange sense of both intimacy and high drama. In fashion terms, as always, the eye leapt straight to what it doesn’t ordinarily see, and that was the exceptional dressmaking in black: sculpted black hoods to begin with (something between Catholic mantillas and ’60s space-age couture); tailored skirtsuits with gold buttons on cuffs and flippy gored fishtail hemlines; then a cocktail dress draped to one shoulder; and yet more simple-yet-ineffably sophisticated silhouettes with silvery crystal shoulder straps or the illusion of ’30s-style clips at the waist. (There’s a lot of the languid ’30s beginning to filter through fashion, by the by.)

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Singularity is the thing about haute couture. Dolce and Gabbana said that only one of each outfit will be made—a message that meant that the customers in the audience had their fingers on the triggers of their phones, texting their dibs on the looks even before the music swelled to a close. It was, of course, a fantastical performance on every level, yet one underpinned by reality. Back in the workrooms, there is a large landing crowded with dress forms in all shapes and sizes—the mannequins made to the exact measurements of the women who order here.Dolce_Gabbana_Alta_Moda_spring_summer_2016_collection2-768x536

The house estimates that crowd has now reached 200. That itself is a huge accolade to the two men who began this enterprise as Milanese upstarts in the late ’80s. As they took their bows, wiping away tears, the thunderous applause was the measure of a career pinnacle, and brilliantly well-deserved.

 

Not Ordinary Fashion

Pictures By Vogue

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