The Making Of Chanel Haute Couture

Well Folk, they came, they saw, and some of us coveted

The curtains are closing on New York Fashion Week for the fall-winter 2015 collections, and what a week it was: From the new crop of trends to teen models who took over, there certainly wasn’t a minute to rest if you were watching the catwalk as closely as I was.  Even this last day of shows brought us some excitement, a touch of the West with ever classy Ralph Lauren  and a new lust for lacquered skirts and jackets, even Michael Kors brought some down to earth glamour that he said backstage “it felt like the Duchess of Windsor would have worn something with this feeling in her day” that we will never know, but he was inspired by her. He said people want sedate glamour among other things.

But Marc Jacobs finale might have the week summed up perfectly: With exaggerated silhouettes, punchy pops of pink and orange and just a bit of that classic Marc-y Marc grunge, he gave us a little of all that we loved from the best shows this week.

It’s been over a year now since Marc Jacobs left his post at Louis Vuitton. Good breakup or bad, splitting up is hard, and it sort of showed in his last two collections for his own label. Both last Fall’s show, over which Jessica Lange intoned unconvincingly that “happy days are here again,” and the all-army green lineup he presented for Spring felt not exactly dull

 

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but definitely melancholic. Tonight’s show was something very different, with a Stefan Beckman-designed backdrop inspired by Jeremiah Goodman’s painting of Diana Vreeland’s sitting room and a bone-rattling loud soundtrack lifted from Darren Aronofsky’s Requiem for a Dream, both of which fairly screamed, “I’m back!”

The clothes lived up to the advance billing. From the relatively quiet start of Erin O’Connor’s almost-black checked sheath with four wide bands of bugle beads below the waist, the collection built and built. It touched on metallic brocades and leopard print, chevroned mink, grommeted leather, nailhead studded silk, and embroideries that looked like digitized and pixelated portraits of the eccentric Vreeland. “She was a genius,” Jacobs said of the legendaryVogue editor backstage. “She got the whole fashion thing: being decisive, being so excitable, and then being as passionate and dismissive about the very same thing the next day.” Jacobs read her Memos book while he was working on the Fall collection; the surprise is that he hasn’t made a muse of Vreeland before. “I felt like that’s what fashion is,” he continued, “that complete addiction, obsession, that I’ve-got-to-have-it need until I basically wouldn’t be caught dead in it.”

Over the years, Jacobs has produced that obsessive feeling in fashion lovers more reliably than most. As the models paraded by in their polished patent leather boots, you could tick off the looks that will get his fans’ blood pumping, from the snake-print coats with jet embroidery to the long, straight column dresses that felt spare despite their swirls of sequins. Will the floor-scraping pleated skirts and the mutton-sleeve jackets make a come back?  Hard to say. They’re definitely not where fashion’s collective unconscious is in early 2015. But who knows? To borrow a quote from the famously quotable Vreeland, Jacobs may just have given us what we never knew we wanted.

Not Ordinary Fashion

Non Of These Pictures Are Mine

He’s Baaaaaack! Some thoughts on John Galliano’s return to Maison Margiela

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John Galliano has returned to fashion with a triumphant debut for Maison Margiela and the Martin is gone. In total there were 24 looks. I’ve posted a few hear that I liked.
Presenting his spring 2015 couture collection in London, rather than the usual Paris slot, the former Dior designer chose an anonymous office block setting – how fitting, considering Martin Margiela is a man ironically famed for his invisibility.

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Handing over the house keys to one of the most high-profile designers ever was surely a risk for MM’s uniform ‘collective’, but one that seems to have paid off as the artisanal collection emerged.

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Perfectly deconstructed tuxedos and pitch-perfect column gowns were quick to remind us that Galliano’s tailoring skills are second-to-none, while surrealist embellishments (a razor cut coat breast covered with patent shells in a sort of latex lobster look) showed us that he can still come up with kooky-cool new concepts aplenty.

He had plenty of supporters there such as Anna Wintor and others.

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But it was the show’s finale that really struck a chord with the audience, as the previous looks emerged again in calico toile form, tacked with instructions and handwritten notes. Partly, perhaps, a reference to his original debut as a graduate in 1984, and partly, of course, to remind everyone that the new Galliano is still a work in progress.

Photo Credit: Marcu Tondo / Indigitalimages.com

 

Dreamy

Photo:I love this dress. I wish I could have been a fly on the wall when Christian Dior designed it.  Yards and yards of tule and lace. Tiers and layers at different lengths, full, unique and inventive.  This silhouette in the 1950’s was unique to Christian Dior.  A picture of it hangs in the Salon in Paris. It has everything I can think of that makes me feel dreamy about fashion. It’s a delightful confection, full of life and the glamour of anticipation of something wonderful and wistful about to happen or has just happened. Sigh . . .

photo credit unknown, I do not own these photos

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It’s so exciting to see the artisans work!

For most designers it’s in the details, but just how do those intricate embellishments come to be? Here is a rare glimpse inside Paris’ iconic Maison Hurel, which has been creating embroideries for haute couture clients like Chanel and Valentino since 1870. Legendary design houses, including Saint Laurent, J. Mendel, Jason Wu, Gucci, Tom Ford, and Roberto Cavalli have been calling on Hurel to enhance their collections with unique fabrics, exquisite stitching, and dazzling beadwork.

Here We Go!!!

Well this is my first post. eeeeeek! I wonder if other bloggers feel like this. I’m really a mess. Well this will be the first of many many discussions we have together.  This is were we will talk about fashion, from everything to why Haute Couture to what your walking out the door in. But my passion the thing that makes my heart sing are the details of garments created by talented and beyond talented designers.  I have a blog on tumblr take a look and see what I’m talking about. So  I asked my tumblr followers what they would like to hear me talk about.  They gave me lots and lots of great ideas. Soooo wish me luck!

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